CLIMBING RECORD AT MOUNTS ALPAMAYO & QUITARAJU 2005
PERUVIAN SPEEDIEST CLIMBERS
the cordillera Blanca has countless summits and glaciers, most of them over 5000 meters, include the most beautiful mountain in the world, which is mount alpamayo 5947 meters, that lovely summit has been considered the most beautiful mount since 1966 in Munich Germany and mount Quitaraju 6036 meters, that summits were climbed in a record time less than 33 hours, that great job started on September 6th at cashapampa country side and finished on September 7th at the beginning place, usually this expedition take at least one week, this great and hard management was accomplished by the Peruvian qualified high mountain guide Daniel Milla Lliuya and aspirant for to be mountain guide Juan Carlos Lliuya Espinoza, both are from Huaraz city.
When I was 12 years old waked up the passion for climbing mountains in White Mountain range, but for that age I wasn’t allowed to do my dreams because I was teenager.
When I finished my study at high school,www.replicareps.com I decided to study to be a mountain guide at high mountain school center (CEAM), when I was 26 years old I got my title as a qualified high mountain guide to be exactly on 10th December of 2005. The following year I did the dear to highlight the first record climbing mount alpamayo, before as aspirant guide i had climbed several times, with clients from different nationalities, which was part of guide training.
To realize this expedition, it was necessary to looked for economical and logistic support after sending some documents I managed the support of mountain guides association of Peru, gyula inn hostel, galaxia expeditions, mount climb as well as our close friends and colleagues.
Thanks to this support we began to organize the second expedition to climb mount Alpamayo and Quitaraju, at the same time.
On September 4, the support group departed from Huaraz toward cashapampa with private transportation, and from cashapampa to base camp with animals support, the next day the support team approached to the high camp, which is lies over 5200 meters on the glacier, the third day our support team made the preparation of the French- Basque ascend route of mount alpamayo.
While Juan Carlos Lliuya Espinoza and I Daniel Milla Lliuya, departed from huaraz on September 5th until cashapampa, the day after we left at 8 am in toward high camp, after reaching, we started ascending mount quitaraju on the north face at 8:30 in the night
reaching the summit at 11:30 in the night, after that we descended on the normal route, that night was too much windy and the temperature dropped - 20 degree Celsius; where we had only some minutes to drink a few sips of water and continued the ascent of mount Alpamayo, here my partner and me were very tired, but happy to achieve our goal. When I started the first steps i felt that the snow was too soft of 40-50 cm, at least 40 meters after that we arrived to the “bergschrund” where we started climbing on the southwest wall, doing 6 pitches of 60 meters to reach the summit.
When I checked my replica watches was 7:30 in the morning. .
We were almost achieved 90% of our goal, then we descended to the high camp and finally to cashapampa, the watch was marking 5.16 '55 " pm making a total rise time these two summits of 32.16 '55" hours. The joy at having succeeded our challenge was an awesome feeling.
Again a special thanks to the agencies mentioned before, in especially the mountain guides association of Peru (AGMP) and support team who formed it.
SOURCE: DANIEL MILLA LLIUYA